What really sets this al pastor apart is the vibrant chili and achiote paste marinade, which lend a mysterious complexity to the meat. The meat is cut into larger chunks than at Mario's, but each morsel tastes impossibly juicy and packed with flavor. But the version I tried at the Wicker Park outlet of Rick Bayless' successful torta shop floored me. I tried the al pastor a few years ago at the downtown location of Xoco, and thought it admirable, if a little flat. The chili and achiote paste marinade distinguishes the al pastor at Xoco Bistro from other versions in town. If I could have only one al pastor taco for the rest of my life, it'd be from Mario's.īy the way, the staff will warn you that the salsas are spicy, and they're right. A few slivers of pineapple add a pop of sweet freshness to each bite. Thinly sliced straight from the beautiful trompo onto an awaiting tortilla, the meat is salty, juicy and packed with the smoky savoriness of bacon. Yet, the al pastor comes the closest to the exceptional versions I sampled while in Mexico City. Nothing about the space seems all that different from hundreds of other taquerias scattered around the city. Fortunately, a few places keep the sacred art of al pastor alive and well in Chicago. There are no shortcuts to al pastor greatness. This scorches the marinade, desiccates the meat and ruins what would otherwise be good al pastor. Others take the time to load up a trompo with beautifully marinated pork, carefully cook it, slice it off and then manhandle it on the griddle. Most places don't bother with the trompo at all, tossing marinating pork slices on a griddle to cook. Perhaps I'm too demanding, but once you have great al pastor, the impostors are easy to spot. NICK'S TACO CHALLENGE: 28 TACOS WORTH HUNTING DOWNīut I've also been burned more times than I can remember. When done right, the meat comes off juicy, haunted with heat, tinged with citrus sweetness and suffused with a cured pork aroma that reminds me of bacon. Whenever I spot a spinning tower of stacked pork slices (called a trompo), stained red from the chili marinade and crowned with pineapple, my heart thumps and my mouth waters. My co-workers wanted me to find the best al pastor taco in Chicago, so I ate my way around the city, revisiting old favorites and hitting new spots recommended to me, to do it.Īl pastor is my one true taco love, but she's a fickle mistress. It's time to wrap up the first challenge of Nick's Taco Challenge. Reporter Nick Kindelsperger is eating tacos every day in May in an attempt to complete six challenges posed by his co-workers.Ĭatch up with every day he's eaten tacos so far.
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